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[subject] => 野菜的韵味_薛振堂
[dateline] => 2022-11-23 11:00:38
[message] => 不知不觉间，已是农历三月。
三月，温暖的春风徐徐吹着，濛濛的小雨淅淅沥沥飘着。这个时候河边岸上的野菜开始泛青，吐露出嫩嫩的芽苞。岗坡上、田埂上、杏树下、麦垄间，便会拱出一片片绿绒绒的野菜芽儿来。过个三五日，细嫩的菜芽全变成肥肥壮壮的叶片子，有锯齿状的，有柳叶状的，有豆瓣状，形形色色，野菜的家族，成为春天一抹特殊的绿。
小时候，家里日子过得清苦，到了春天，贮存了一冬的大白菜吃完了，正是青黄不接的时候，那满坡的野菜便成了我们的美食。野菜发芽了，母亲就让我去挖野菜。每天放学后，我拎着一个藤篮，拿上镰刀，再叫上几个小伙伴，就到外边的田野上、沟渠旁挖野菜，不一会儿，我们就满载而归。到家后，母亲就会发挥她的聪明才智，变着花样做给我们吃。
那时，我们常挖的野菜有荠菜、花花菜、毛毛眼、蒲公英、白蒿苗、灰灰菜、苦苣菜等。母亲把野菜择洗干净，然后在锅里焯一下，加上油盐，拌成凉菜，或炒成热菜，有时候也做汤、做馅，不同的做法，会带来不同的享受，而且味道也各有千秋。
记忆里，荠菜是我们挖的最多的野菜之一。立春过后，荠菜青绿肥嫩，有的顶上还开着白色的小花，七八片锯形的叶片围成一个圆，仿佛一个绿色的圆盘，乍一看，宛如绿盘托珍珠，煞是好看，所以成了我们采摘的最爱，采摘来的荠菜，母亲用其嫩茎叶，焯过后蘸酱做成凉拌、做汤、做馅、炒食都可以，还可以熬成鲜美的荠菜粥，不仅美味可口，还带有一股清香味。
在诸多野菜中，我觉得荠菜的口感和味道最佳，是野菜中的上品，历来受人赞美。苏轼赞其为“天然之珍，虽小甘于五味，而有味外之美”。嗜好素食的陆游对荠菜更是深爱有加，留下了诸如“唯荠天所赐，青青被陵冈”，“日日思归饱蕨薇，春来荠美忽忘归”的妙句。
荠菜棵儿小，贴着地皮长，一簇簇，碧绿青翠，看似不起眼，味道却极鲜美。难怪《苏轼说略》说“荠菜为野蔌上品，煮粥做斋，特为清水，以油炒之，颇腴，再加水煨尤佳”。荠菜不仅味道美，而且营养丰富，含有极丰富的蛋白质，胡萝卜素，维生素c和氨基酸，同时，还有一定的药效作用。
我最钟情的还是用荠菜包饺子吃。把挖来的荠菜仔细择好，用清水洗净，放在热水里迅速地烫一下，然后立即用冷水降温，挤出多余的菜汁，用刀细细地剁碎，拌上豆腐、粉条、鸡蛋，加入细盐、味精、葱末、姜末、生豆油，荠菜饺子馅就做好了。咬一口荠菜饺子，浓浓的荠菜香香在嘴里，香在心里。
“寒随一夜去，春逐五更来。”又是一春野菜香，置身田间地头，呼吸呼吸新鲜空气，舒活舒活筋骨，去采摘春天的野菜鲜蔬，品读别致的春天，是何等惬意！每是周末或闲时，人们都喜欢去郊外的田岗或河边随意走走，顺便挖点野菜捎回家，倒也是生活一趣。
世界有很多东西或许都是这样，初识或许还嫌其粗鄙，但只要你敞开心扉去了解它、接受它，反而能慢慢地品味到它细腻香醇的独特的韵味。我想，这或许是野菜传递给我们的最深刻的意味吧。
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