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[subject] => 麻花里炸出的年味 散文 彭建国
[dateline] => 2024-1-29 09:42:39
[message] => 随着春节的日益临近，街头店铺里的油炸麻花生意非常火爆，油锅里飘出的浓浓香味，勾起我关于炸麻花的难忘回忆。
金黄香酥的油炸麻花，是我们当地的一种特色油炸食品小吃，香味弥漫，清脆可口，寓意来年好运滚滚，红红火火。在我们家乡夏县水头镇一带，炸麻花是准备过年中的一件大事，人们通常把炸麻花也叫做“煮麻花”。
小时候家里穷，一大家十几口人，每年只煮几斤麻花，并且尽量拖到腊月二十七八才煮，怕的是被我们这些小馋猫早早地吃完。煮麻花的时候，油锅一支起来，大人们就把我们“轰”到巷里，锁在门外，我们只能从门缝里眼巴巴地看着屋里的麻花出锅，闻着从院里飘出的香味，馋得直流口水。好不容易等到煮完，大人才开了门，给每人发上一根，我们一点点细细咀嚼，不舍得马上咽下，唯恐美味快速消失。那时候，能在煮麻花这天吃上一根麻花就是最大的享受了。然后，父亲便把剩下的麻花收拾起来，装进垫有麦秸的筐里，用绳子高高地吊在房梁上，直到正月待客时才取。要知道，就是在正月初一那天，父亲也才给我们每人发一根麻花吃呀。
时光如梭，当年吃麻花的小孩，后来也长成了煮麻花的大人。老伴手巧心细，是搓麻花的把式。前些年一入腊月，几乎天天有街坊邻里请她去帮忙，张家煮了李家煮，一直忙到腊月二十三，小年到了还煮不完。整个村庄始终是炊烟袅袅，香气缭绕。因此，我们家煮麻花大都安排在腊八前进行。
每当煮麻花时，我和老伴从头天晚上就开始忙活了，称白面、化盐水、发酵面。第二天，早早就开始和面，然后把搓成手腕粗的面条切成一个个香皂大的小剂，抹上油，一层层放入大盆里，像排兵布阵一般，搁到热炕上，捂上被子，让面剂快点醒发。
时间很快过去，可以搓麻花了。老伴从大盆里取出一些手感温温的小剂子，一次拿出几个分给大家，不能全部拿出来，冷了就不好搓了，容易断裂。通常是老伴、弟媳，隔壁的婶子还有对门的嫂子几个人一起搓。只见她们几个将一团不大不小的面团放在手中揉搓，面团时而变细，时而变粗，时而在面板上飞舞，传出一阵阵“啪啪”的响声，很快面团便在她们的手中变成一根根精巧玲珑的半成品麻花，粗细均匀，长短一致，我不由得对她们的手艺生出些许敬意和钦佩。
接着，二弟烧火，孩子们在一旁打杂，大家一边忙着手中活，一边唠着家常，热热闹闹，欢声笑语充满了小屋。
烧火也是要紧活，二弟一手拉风箱，一手拿炭锨，先把油烧热，然后时刻听从我的指挥。我将半成品的麻花放入冒着热气的油锅里炸，“三分炸，七分捞”。炸制的时候，火候最难把握。火大了，出来的成品外面变成了“黑包公”，里面还不熟；火小了，颜色发白，不好看。炸太老味道苦涩，起太早又不够酥脆，最好是中火慢炸，锅里一次不能放太多，一根根白色的麻花坯在油锅内被翻动着，尽情“嬉戏”，不时吐出些“泡泡”。很快麻花由软变硬，白色变成金黄色，我用长筷子捞出麻花，放在事先准备好的竹筐内。半天功夫，便整整齐齐摆满了一大筐，根根色泽金黄，胖瘦匀称，长短恰当，香气袭人，刚出锅的麻花色泽红亮，让人垂涎欲滴，随手拿起一小节麻花放入口中，酥脆可囗，甜而不腻，香味十足，吃时嘎嘣声响，吃完韵味悠长。
夹麻花的往往最累，从头至尾双手舞动，不能歇气，一锅煮下来，往往腰酸背疼，双臂麻木。但搓的人也不轻松，油温高时，得急搓几条下锅压火，常常忙得手忙脚乱，不可开交。烧火的、打杂的还必须协调统一，哪个环节都不能忽快忽慢，难怪人们形容一个人忙得脱不开身时，就说他正在“麻花架子上”。
麻花作为家乡非常有名的特色小吃，是我记忆中的年味美食，也是人们走亲访友、馈赠贵客的必备之物。春节期间，满满摆上一盘子，亲戚朋友互相拜年时，慢慢享用，细细品尝。一根香酥的麻花，吃在嘴里，香在心里，欢乐的年味就品出来了。
今年腊月初九，我和老伴一时兴起，竟在县城新家的煤气灶上煮了五斤麻花，煮得倒是很成功，但往年煮麻花时大家在一起搭伙互相帮忙，互拉家常的热闹场面，再也找不回来了。
煮麻花，不仅是在制作一种传统美食，更是炸出了浓浓的年味。至今，我仍留恋过去煮麻花时看那如同制作艺术品一般的搓麻花过程，留恋煮麻花时的香味，留恋孩子们盯着香酥脆甜的麻花垂涎欲滴、跑前窜后的欢乐情景，留恋着一家人齐心协力煮麻花时的欢声笑语。
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